Method of making footwear.



W. J. KELLY.

METHOD OF MAKING FOOTWEAR.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 25, 1912.

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Patented Oct. 13,1914

2 SHEETSSHEBT l.

INVENTOR TVZZliam Jlflg Alfornej/s W [TNESSES W. I. KELLY.

METHOD OF MAKING FOOTWEAR.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 25, 1912.

1,113,562. Patented 0012. 13,1914.

2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR 77mm JFJfZ W 6. W By Q Attorneys UNITED srrArEs PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM J'. KELLY, OF READING, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO CURTIS & JONES (30., 0F READING, PENNSYLVANIA, ACORPORATION OF PENNSYLVANIA.

METHOD OF MAKING FOOTWEAR.

. Application filed April 25, 1912. Serial No. 693,202.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM J. KEL Y, a citizen ofthe United States, residing at Reading, county of Berks, and- State of Pennsylvania, have invented a certain new and useful Method of Making Footwear, of which the following is a specification.

This invention is a method of making foot-wear, more particularly boots and shoes, and the object of the invention is to make such boots and shoes in a simple, efiicient and economical manner, and to produce a shoe which is particularly sightly and durable.

Shoes made in accordance with my method have all the appearances, as well as the wearing qualities, of the well known Goodyear welt shoes, and yet may be manufactured at very considerably reduced cost.

With the foregoing objects in view, the method, in its entirety, preferably embodies the following operations: applying an adhesive to the bottom, 2'. e., under-surface, of an insole, when in position on a last. fitting the lining of the upper closely to the last, i. 0., lasting said lining, and folding the edges of said'lining onto the insole and in contact with the moist adhesive, whereby said lining is made to conform perfectly to the last and is secured to the insole by said adhesive; then applying a seat slip, preferably leather, to the insole at. the heel seat, whereupon a counteiypreferably molded, is fitted over the heel seat and slip, and thereby made to embrace a portion also of the lining of the upper, said counter being then tacked down into position. The foregoing operations embody the salient features of the new method, but all the operations described need not necessarily be used, or in the precise order enumerated. The operations or steps described are succeeded by others, in order to complete the shoe, such as the following: applying a filling, preferably of a plastic nature containing cork, to the under surface of the insole and overlapping edges of the lining of the upper; then tacking on the outersole and lasting the upper, said upper being attached to the outersole and beneath the edge of the insole, either by stapling or sewing, leaving the outer edge of the upper free; a welt is then positioned upon, said free edge of the upper and over the edge portion of the outer sole, whereupon the upper, welt and outersole are sewed to- Specification of Letters Yatent.

Patented Oct. 13, 1914.

gether, this stitching being exteriorly of the prior stapling 'or sewing of the upper to the outer sole.

In the accompanying drawings, I have illustrated-one practical embodiment of the invention, but the construction shown therein is to be understood as illustrative, only, and not as defining the limits of the invention.

Figure 1 is a perspective view illustrating the steps of lasting the lining ofan upper and attaching the edge portion of said lining to an insole when in position upon a last, said lining being lasted separately from the upper. Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing the lasted lining of F ig. 1 in connection with the operation of building up the heel portion upon the insole and securing a counter in position over the built up heel portion of the insole and the lining. Fig. 3 is a vertical longitudinal section through the parts of Fig. 2, a portion of the last being shown. Fig. l is a vertical longitudinal section showing the step of applying a plastic filling over the folded edge of the lining, the built up portion of the heel and the edge portion of the counter, said plastic filling covering the surface of the insole, and the aforesaid parts to which it is applied. Fig. 5 is a vertical longitudinal section of the parts shown in Fig. 4: with the outersole attached to the upper, said upper being lasted over the lining subsequent to the operation of drawing said lining over the last, a welt being secured to the edge portion of the outersole in a manner to conceal the means for attaching the edge portion of the upper directly to the outersole. Fig. 6 is a cross section on the line 66 of Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a detail section, on the line 7-7 of Fig. 6, illustrating the row of staples by which the upper is attached to the outersole so as to leave a free edge portion on the upper in position to be covered by the welt.

In carrying out the invention an nsole A is first applied to a last B. Said insole is so cut that its length and width slightly exceeds the length and width of the last, it being preferred to make the insole somewhat larger than the last upon which said insole is to be positioned, whereby the edge portions of the insole will extend from onethirty-second (2) to one sixteenth ('1 s) of an inch beyond the last. A lining C and an 1 upper D are prepared and attached in the ordinary way, but instead of lasting the upper and its lining simultaneously, as is ordinarily practised in the art, the lining C is lasted independently of upper D. After the insole is properly'placed upon the last, with or without tacking said insole to the last, the lining C is drawn tightly around said last so as to conform perfectly thereto. The edge of lining C is folded over the protruding edge of insole A, as indicated at 0, whereby the edge of the liningis adapted to be secured in position by suitable means,

preferably an adhesive or cement. Prior to, or during the operation of, lasting the lining, a layer of adhesive material, such as cement, is applied to the bottom or under surface of insole A. Now when the lining is drawn around the last and the edges 6 of said lining folded over the protruding edge of the insole and upon the adhesive upon the bottom face thereof, said edges 0 of the lining are pressed firmly down upon the adhesive, whereby the folded edges of the lining are attached securely to the insole. The next step is to apply a counter to the insole and to the lining after the latter shall have been drawn over the last. For the purpose of snugly fitting the counter over the heel seat of the insole, it is preferred to apply-a heel seat slip E to the heel seat of said insole, and thereafter the counter F is placed in position over the lining and the seat slip. Said seat slip E is composed, preferably, of leather cut to the desired shape, and it is placed in position over the infolded edges 0 of the upper lining C at the heel portion of the insole. It is not essential to use the heel seat slip E, and when a good heavy insole is used, in the manufacture of the shoe, this slip E may be entirely omitted. Counter F is, preferably,

. molded according to the size and shape of the shoe, said counter being provided with an inwardly extending flange The counter may be composed of leather, or any other suitable material, and it is molded to. conform to the shape of the heel, said counter being a comparatively stiff member. When the counter is placed inposition it'incases the heel portion of the lining, and its flange f extendsacross and incases the edge portions of the seat slip, said counterbeing secured in position by suitable means, such as the lasting tacks f which are shown in Fig. 3 as passing through the counter and into the seat slip, but, obviously,.these lasting tacks may be long enough to extend through the folded edges 0 of the lining and into the insole, or even into the last.

The procedure just described constitutes an improvement in the art of making shoes and possesses many advantages, among which are the following: The lining C of the upper is made to conform perfectly to the last, and it is attached securely to the insole; it is preferred to build up the heel portion of the shoe so as to securely attach the counter to the heel seat of the insole; the counter is easily, quickly and accurately placed in position so that it fits snugly to the lining and incases the edge portion of the seat slip, and the operations are easily and quickly performed.

After proceeding as heretofore described, the shoe is finished by lasting the upper and by securing an outersole to said upper. The preferred mode of procedure in finishing the shoe is shown in Figs. 4 to 7, both inclusive, to which reference will now be made. A filling G is applied to the under face of the insole in a manner to cover said insole, thefolded edges 0 of lining C, the inturned flange f of the counter, and the seat slip. This filling may be composed of any suitable material, although it is preferred to employ a self-hardening composition containing cork. The filling is applied to the insole and the correlated parts to produce a layer substantially uniform in depth, the top surface of the filling conforming substantially to the contour of the outersole. After the heel lift H and the outersole I shall have been placed in position, they are tacked to the last in the ordinary way, for the purpose of retaining them proper relation during the lasting of the upper.

I Said upper is drawn tightly over the last-and the stretched or taut lining C, the edge portion of the upper overlapping the edge portion of the outersole. According to one mode of procedure the upper is fastened to the outersole substantially beneath the edge of the insole,

and this attachment of the upper to the outersole is independent of the attachment 1 of the edge 0 of the lining to the insole. In Figs. 5, 6 and 7 of the drawings the edge portion d of the upper laps the edge portion of the outersole, and said lapped portion of the upper is fastened to the outersole by stapling or stitching the parts together. Fig.

I 7 illustrates a row of staples J for attaching the upper to the outersole wlthin the free edge 05 of said upper, and during the lasting joperation the edge of the upper is drawn around the edge of the insole so that the staples J may be positioned substantially within said edge of the insole, whereby the upper is made to conform to the stretched or taut lining and the parts are united in a substantial way. The staples J may be of Eany suitable form, and they are positioned to pass through the upper and to be embedded within the material of the outersole.

the free edge portion 03 of the upper, the function of said weltbeing to conceal the staples and to, also, conceal the free edge portion of the u per. The welt K is of any suitable or pre erred form and it is positioned over or upon the outwardly extending free edge 03 of the upper, whereby the welt, the edge (1 of the upper and the outersole are assembled in lapping relation, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6. The welt and the upper are attached to the outersole independently of the row of staples or the stitches by which the upper is attached directly to the outersole. it is preferred to sew the welt and the upper to the outersole by a row of stitches indicated at k, the stitches k being independent of the staples J, and the seam formed by the stitches in passing through the welt, the offstanding edge portion (1 of the upper, and the edge portion of the outersole.

From the foregoing description taken in connection with the drawings it is apparent that the lining C and upper D are lasted independently of each other, and, furthermore, the lining C is attached to the insole independently of the attachment of the upper to the outersole.

Animportant feature of my invention consists in the use of an insole the dimensions of which slightly exceed those of the last, and in positioning said insole upon the last in a manner for the edges of said insole; to protrude beyond the edges of said last.

This enables the upper to be lasted under the protruding edge of the insole, wherebv stitches or staples J are adapted to be posi- .7

tioned under said protruding edge of the insole, see Figs. '5 and 6. The staples or stitches J are thus protected in part by the edge of the insole, and they are concealed and protected by the welt K. By having the edge of the insole protrude beyond the staples or stitches J, a shoulder is produced after the welt is attached to the outersole, and this precludes the shoe from pulling up, besides imparting to the shoe the exact appearance of a Goodyear welt. A most important advantage following from this organization of the parts is that the entire strain is taken off the upper under the pres sure of the foot upon the insole, for the rea son that the protruding edge of the upper is attached by staples or sewing to the outer sole on a line inside the edge portion of the insole, see Fig. 6, and upon the outwardly turned edge d of this. upper is positioned the welt, the latter being attached to said edge d and to the outer sole by sewing the parts together, as a result of which the upper is relieved from excess strain. Again, by arranging the edge of the insole to overlap the edge of the upper and the welt, water cannot reach the inside of the shoe without soaking through the upper,-thus-resu1ting in the production of a substantially waterproof shoe. It is to be observed, further, that the upper is attached to the outersole In this connectionby two rows of fastenings, both of which are separate or independent of the attachment of the lining to the protruding edge of the insole; furthermore, one row of fastenings (staples or stitches J) are positioned under and within the protruding edge of said insole, and, again, the welt and the upper are attached to th outersole by a row of stitches k which are separate from the row of staples or stitches J, whereby a strong and durable to the procedure of this invention.

, Having thus fully described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1 The method of making shoes which consists in lasting a lining separately from the upper and attaching said lining to an insole, positioning a heel seat slip against the lining, positioning a counter over the lining and heel seat slip, thereafter lasting the upper, then fastening the upper directly to an outer sole on a line substantially within the edge of the insole, and thereafter sewing a welt to the upper and the outer sole by a seam positioned exteriorly to the aforesaid attachment of the upper to the outer sole.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting a lining separately from the upper and uniting said lining to an insole, placing a heel seat slip against the lining, positioning a counter into lapping relation to said heel seat slip and the lining, then lasting the upper over said lining and the counter, then uniting the upper to the outersole independently of the lining and beneath the edgeportion of the insole, and then sewing a welt and the upper to the outer sole independently of the aforesaid attachment of the upper beneath the edge of the insole.

3. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting a lining separ tely from the upper, securing said lining to the insole-by an adhesive, placing a heel seat slip against the lining, positioning a counter into lapping relation to said heel seat slip and the lining, then lasting the upper over said lining and the counter, then uniting an out- I wardly turned edge portion of the upper to an outersole on a line beneath the edge portion of the insole, and then sewing a welt and the outwardly turned edge portion of the upper to the outersole on a line exteriorly to the aforesaid attachment of the -w'elt to said outersole beneath the edge of the insole. I

4. The method of making shoes which consists in first lasting the lining of the shoe, placing a heel seat slip against the lining and the insole, positioning a counter over the lining and into lapping relation to the heel seat slip, then lasting the upper,

gthen the outersole. to the upper,

shoe results from making the shoe accordin leaving a free edge on thelatter, applying a welt upon said free edge, and uniting the welt, upper and outersole together, by a seam independent of the aforesaid attachment of the outer sole to the upper.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting the lining of the upper and securing the edge of said lining to the insole, placing a heel seat slip against the lining and insole, positioning a counter over the lining and into lapping relation to the heel seat slip, then lasting the upper, then securing an outersole to the upper independently of the attachment of the lining to the insole, and thereafter sewing a welt and the upper to the outersole on a line exteriorly of the aforesaid attachment of the upper to said outer sole.

6. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting the lining of the upper and securing the edge of said lining to the insole, then applying a heel lift to the insole,

' then applying a counter so that its edges fold over said heel lift, then tacking said edges in place, and then lasting the upper and securlng it to an outer sole.

7. The method of making shoes which consists in applying an insole to a last, lasting an upper lining and securing its edges to the edges of said insole, then positioning a heel lift on top of said lining and insole, then securing a counter in place with its edge infolded on-said heellift, then lasting an upper over the said upper lining and securing it to the outersole of the shoe separately from said lining. I

8. The method of making shoes which consists in applying an insole to a last, lastlng an upper lining and securing its edges to the edges of said insole, then positioning a heel lift on top of said lining and insole, then securing a counter ,in lace with its edges infolded on said heel lift, lasting an upper over the said upper lining, securing it to theo utersole of the shoe separately from sald linlng, applying a welt near the outer and upper edge of the outersole and then fastening said upper. welt and outersole together.

9. The method of making shoes which sole together.

ing a counter in place with its edges overlapping said heel lift, and then positioning an upper and outersole in place and securing them together.

11. The method of making shoes which consists in fastening a lining to an insole, positioning a heel lift on said insole, securing a counter in place with its edges overlapping said heel lift, then positioning an upper and outersole in place and securing them together, then concealing the line of union of the outersole and upper by a welt, and then securing said welt, upper and outersole together.

12. The method of making shoes-which consists in conforming an upper lining to a last and securing its edges to an insole, then building up the heel upon the insole, securing a counter in position relative to the insole and the heel, then positioning an upper and outersole in place and securing them together separately from the insole.

13. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting an upper lining, then applying a heel seat slip to the insole, then securing a counter in position relative to the heel seat slip and said lining, and then lasting the upper.

14. The method of making shoes which consists in lasting a lining and securing its edges to an insole, building up the heel portion by applying a heel seat slip to the insole, securing a counter in position to incase the heel seat slip and a part of the insole, and then lasting the upper.

15. The method of making shoes which consists in applying an insole to a last with the edges of said insole protruding beyond the corresponding edges of the last, lasting the upper lining around the last and the protruding edge of the insole, then uniting said lining to the insole, placing a heel seat slip against the insole, positioning a counter over the lining and into lapping relation to the heel seat slip, thereafter lasting the upper, and then uniting an outersole to the upper by fastenings positioned under and within the protruding edge of the insole.

16. The method of making shoes which consists in applying an insole to a last with the edges of said insole protruding beyond the corresponding edges of the last, lasting the upper lining around the last and the pro trudin edge of the insole, placing a heel seat slip against the insole, positloning a counter over the lining and into lapping relation to the heel seat slip, then lasting said lining to the insole, thereafter lasting the upper over the counter and the heel seat slip and beneath the protruding edge of said insole, applying an outersole, then attaching said outersole to the upper on a line under and within saidprotruding edge of the insole, and then attaching a welt and the out-turned edge of the upper to the outersole by sewing theparts together independently. of the aforesaid attachment of the upper within the edge of the insole.

17. The method of making shoes which consists in applying an insole to a last with the edges of said insole protruding beyond the corresponding edges ofthe last, lasting the upper lining around the last and the protruding edge of the insole, then securing an outersole to the upper independently of.

the attachment of the lining to the insole and by a row of fasteners positioned under and within said protruding edge of the insole, and finally securing a welt and an edge of the upper to the outersole by an independent row of stitches, said Welt being positioned to conceal the first row of fasteners. In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

s WILLIAM J. KELLY. Witnesses:

D.'M. STEWART,

ISAAC Y. SrANd, 

